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2020 Honda Insight Touring
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'll try and make this brief.. Per this Honda announcement, there were recent updates pushed out. I got the notification yesterday, and I proceeded to quickly install the first update. No issues. As described, a second update prompted to be installed after the infotainment rebooted. It estimated 20 minutes to install. I honestly forgot I left the car in accessory to install the update and about an hour and a half later, I went to check on it. The car was off and the power/ignition button was slowly pulsing red.

I didn't have time to mess with it last night because the kids had things to do. Today, the car was completely dead. Not even a dome light could come on. With an hour's charge with my portable 12v car battery charger connecting to the advised connection points (positive in the box near the firewall, negative to passenger side engine mount bolt stud), the car was alive again and started right up and everything seemed normal. Infotainment worked, and no more updates available.

I tried to go for a drive an hour later, and now the instrument panel is lit up like a Christmas tree. It is indicating that multiple systems have failed. I have turned it on and off a few times and the indicators and warning lights do not go away. Dismissing them also does not clear them. I have included a screen shot from my phone showing the errors in HondaLink as well as a photo of one of the errors and the instrument cluster within the car.

Sorry for the long post. I wanted to explain the whole situation.. Has anyone had any issues like this with this update?

Font Screenshot Parallel Number Document
Speedometer Tachometer Gauge Odometer Motor vehicle
 

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2019 Honda Insight EX
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Mistakes have been made by leaving the car in accessory mode instead of vehicle being fully on during the update. Your 12v agm battery died during the long update and is probably not able to hold a good enough charge right now hence the dashboard lights with all the errors. Another thing is depending on if the 2nd update completed before the vehicle lost power you might've bricked the cellular modem firmware, too.
 

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I would guess that your AGM 12 volt battery needs to be fully charged, assuming that it was not damaged by the overnight discharge that it was subjected to. The car booster connection under the hood where you connected your charger is not intended to be used for charging the battery but instead it is to be used for a battery boost. The optimum way to charge the battery is via a charger designed for AGM batteries at the battery terminals located in the compartment between the driver and passenger seats.

The Christmas tree lighting display is probably a result of the vehicle computer expecting a full 13 volt supply from the battery and seeing something much less powering up the various sensors.

A fully charged battery should show a voltage level around 13 volts (temperature dependencies here) but if you take a measurement at the booster positive connection under the hood you will measure something like 12.5 volts when the car is turned off. The difference in voltage measurements can be explained by some circuitry feeding the internal computer, the entertainment system, and who knows what else. Throwing a battery charger voltage at these items would certainly not be a good idea but in the long run things might possibly correct themselves if you drive the car for a while and let the built-in electronics charge the battery for you. If this does not work out for you, then you are probably looking at purchasing a new battery; AGM batteries and the older flooded plate batteries do not like to be fully discharged are can easily be damaged if fully discharged and/or overcharged.
 

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Definitely - a discharged 12 volt battery.
Try to charge it by connecting to the terminals. If the charger has different charging programs, select the normal 12 volt battery program (charging voltage less than 14.5 volts).
Some errors require a short distance to travel.
If this does not help, you will need to change the battery.
If the errors go away, contact your dealer for a 12 volt battery test anyway. And the test will already show whether you need to change the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mistakes have been made by leaving the car in accessory mode instead of vehicle being fully on during the update. Your 12v agm battery died during the long update and is probably not able to hold a good enough charge right now hence the dashboard lights with all the errors. Another thing is depending on if the 2nd update completed before the vehicle lost power you might've bricked the cellular modem firmware, too.
I think it has. The accessories and infotainment system seems to be working ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would guess that your AGM 12 volt battery needs to be fully charged, assuming that it was not damaged by the overnight discharge that it was subjected to. The car booster connection under the hood where you connected your charger is not intended to be used for charging the battery but instead it is to be used for a battery boost. The optimum way to charge the battery is via a charger designed for AGM batteries at the battery terminals located in the compartment between the driver and passenger seats.

The Christmas tree lighting display is probably a result of the vehicle computer expecting a full 13 volt supply from the battery and seeing something much less powering up the various sensors.

A fully charged battery should show a voltage level around 13 volts (temperature dependencies here) but if you take a measurement at the booster positive connection under the hood you will measure something like 12.5 volts when the car is turned off. The difference in voltage measurements can be explained by some circuitry feeding the internal computer, the entertainment system, and who knows what else. Throwing a battery charger voltage at these items would certainly not be a good idea but in the long run things might possibly correct themselves if you drive the car for a while and let the built-in electronics charge the battery for you. If this does not work out for you, then you are probably looking at purchasing a new battery; AGM batteries and the older flooded plate batteries do not like to be fully discharged are can easily be damaged if fully discharged and/or overcharged.
Thanks. I am new to AGM batteries. I knew the battery was located inside the console but I didn't realize it was so much different. I tried to take it to the dealer earlier today but I got there at 12:15 EDT and they closed at 12 and they told me to call roadside assistance. ugh... So I posted on here looking for solutions. I am more of a DIY'er anyway when I can. I just want to make sure I do things right.

I'll look into the AGM charger idea and make sure I have direct battery access.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The car was running fine and I went for quick drive of about 20-30 minutes. I came back and still had the warnings. However, a few hours later, I had to go out again, checked the car, and the warnings were gone! (Except for the stupid fuel door open warning that never goes away) So maybe it charged during the last drive enough to be OK. Thanks all.
 

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2019 Honda Insight EX
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(Except for the stupid fuel door open warning that never goes away)
Is your fuel door latch not closing in tightly? You can try bending the hinge to have it close further.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Is your fuel door latch not closing in tightly? You can try bending the hinge to have it close further.
Since day one, the fuel door has not been flush with the side of the car. After I took delivery and noticed it, I immediately brought it to the dealer's attention and they tried to shove it in further themselves as they said "it wasn't quite closed". Well, it is now dented and I'm almost certain it was from this little "adjustment" by the service department check-in person. I also had them look at it during one of the recall service appointments this year and I was told "there is a crack in the door hinge" and it needed to see a body shop. Magically, an hour later, they found time with their on-site body shop to "fix it". It's no different. It's still on about half the time and I can't dismiss it. Pressing it against the side of the car makes it go away so it's just not closing far enough, but I don't know how to adjust it myself. Many times now, I go to fuel, and when I finish fueling, I can't get the dash to stop saying "Ready to fuel" until I open and close the fuel door a few times. Frustrating.
 
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