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Discussion Starter #1
The rear deck is rattling...what is rattling there when music with BASS plays
 

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The rear deck is rattling...what is rattling there when music with BASS plays
Play a bass heavy song, and try pressing on the top of the deck. If the noise stops, it's most likely the deck rattling against the metal. If the deck is held on by bolts, try tightening them. If you can't tighten it anymore, remove the deck and find some squishy 1/4"-1/2" thick foam, and place it between the deck and the metal frame.

If it isn't the deck itself, fold down the rear seats, does that make a difference, I doubt it's the seats. After that, look for things moving, maybe a speaker isn't tight, or a wire tie down. If it's not that, watch the rear speaker cones. If the sub is outputting enough pressure, it can actually force the rear speaker cones out. At that level of bass, you either have to fabricate rear speaker "pods", or just remove them entirely.

Also check your license plate. In every one of my car audio cars, I'd actually take a piece of dynamat or second skin deadener, and cover the back of the plate. (Normally 2 1" strips running top to bottom below the bolt holes, stopping 1" away from the bolt holes.). You could also use foam, but I've always had scrap pieces of sound deadener laying around.

*** Just a tip for those doing sound deadener installations:

Full coverage of a panel is only marginally better than 1/2-to-2/3 coverage. You can save a lot of material by installing strips of sound deadener instead of sheets. Also if you do the floors, look into something like a MLV layer for the floors, front feet area. I've had amazing success with SecondSkins' Luxury liner pro before. This product is intended for maximum coverage.
 

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You'll find a lot of your rattling comes from the side posts in the rear leading to the deck. Foam in some of the edges will help with that as well. I've done some video on the deck and side parts that we put a lot of foam on to cut down the rattles. Also the seat releases in the trunk can rattle too so you may need some fuzzy tape to quiet that down too.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wow...the reason the rear deck is vibrating bad is bc they put the the so-called subwoofer on it...lolol....


How did you guys use dynamat up in tjat rear deck?
 

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Wow...the reason the rear deck is vibrating bad is bc they put the the so-called subwoofer on it...lolol....

How did you guys use dynamat up in tjat rear deck?
In this other thread on Soundskins Pro Dampening Project (Dynamat alternative), @Proforce shared extensive pictures of install in the Touring. But you may be able to use strips instead of sheets instead, as @Wifey'sInsight suggested.
 

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Wow...the reason the rear deck is vibrating bad is bc they put the the so-called subwoofer on it...lolol....


How did you guys use dynamat up in tjat rear deck?
I have some video on my channel of the ballistics matting we did on my car. I'll probably have more video after Monday once I talk to an expert on installing a DSP and amps. The channel name is verdier 400 on you tube.
 

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I'm gonna have to do This summer on that center sub in rear deck...its insane and disingenuous for HONDA engineers to put a subwoofer on a rear deck THAT IS NOT SECURED ON TIGHT... WHY????
If you aren't using the stock subwoofer, remove it. It's dead weight and although technically it works as a pseudo passive radiator, it's not tuned correctly and will most likely reduce bass response in cabin.

Also I'd look into speaker pods for the rear speakers in deck. If you are already going to do a sound deadening install, it's super cheap and you'll be in there anyways.

It's crazy to think that they can't secure a subwoofer, one that low powered. Try sealing subs pushing 2-2.4kw. I've had to get quite creative a time or two.
 

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Once we put the kicker sub in the deck and ballistics matting, we still had to use air conditioner foam throughout the deck and around the sub to quiet things down. The next problem is the third stop lamp enclosure rattling against the rear glass. Takes foam tape to chill that too. Still a work in progress.
 

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Once we put the kicker sub in the deck and ballistics matting, we still had to use air conditioner foam throughout the deck and around the sub to quiet things down. The next problem is the third stop lamp enclosure rattling against the rear glass. Takes foam tape to chill that too. Still a work in progress.
The number one "labor" involved with aftermarket audio, for those who care about any level of sound, is eliminating rattles. And with how much plastic is involved, and clips instead of bolts and nuts, there are soo many things that rattle.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
What are speaker pods for the rear deck?
Is that a StingerPods brand?

Also, can we remove that Subwoofer from the deck and put in a small enclosure/box to save money? I can just Velcro that box on the floor so that dahm rear deck won't rattle 😞
How much will custom audio shops charge for that?


I have a brand new JL Audio 10" sub/amp combo (400 RMS). I thought it would be a plug & play to my insight touring. Obviously it's not...lolol. That JL Audio 10" sub/amp built-in will blow that trunk with rattles. It is too powerful...lolol.


I probably just want to remove that stock subwoofer and have a custom audio shop put a little enclosed box around it.

That whole trunk is annoying me...everything there is loose and we have to line it with anti-rattle/sound deadener....ive never done that before.


Im lazy and have no time, do you recommend a "spray-liner type-in-a-can" I can do my self? Id have to tape/masking and cover with newspapers the rear speaker cones/magnets. Take off the gray thin trunk liners too.
 

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What are speaker pods for the rear deck?

Also, can we remove that Subwoofer from the deck and put in a small enclosure to save money? How much will custom audio shops charge for that?


I have a brand new JL Audio 10" sub/amp combo (400 RMS). I thought it would be a plug & play to my insight touring. Obviously it's not...lolol. That JL Audio 10" sub/amp built-in will blow that trunk with rattles. It is too powerful...lolol.


I probably just want to remove that stock subwoofer and have a custom audio shop out a little enclosed box around it.

That while trunk is annlying me...everything there is loose and we have to line it with anti-rattle/sound deadener....ive never done that before.


Im lazy and have no time, do you recommend a "spray-liner type-in-a-can" I can do my self? Id have to tape/masking and cover with newspapers the rear speaker cones/magnets. Take off the gray thin trunk liners too.
If you get a mono amp with speaker wire inputs then you can just unhook the sub and plug the wires into an amp and hook that to a boxed sub and away you go. No need to remove the factory sub. If you have an amp you love with only line level inputs then get an audio control lc2i line converter. It will hook to the woofers speaker wires and output line level so you can hook to any mono block amp. It has accubass that allows you to recover bass that the system auto chokes down to keep the cheap factory sub from blowing when too much bass comes through. If you need any other info feel free to msg me.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
What are speaker pods for the rear deck?

Also, can we remove that Subwoofer from the deck and put in a small enclosure to save money? How much will custom audio shops charge for that?


I have a brand new JL Audio 10" sub/amp combo (400 RMS). I thought it would be a plug & play to my insight touring. Obviously it's not...lolol. That JL Audio 10" sub/amp built-in will blow that trunk with rattles. It is too powerful...lolol.


I probably just want to remove that stock subwoofer and have a custom audio shop out a little enclosed box around it.

That while trunk is annlying me...everything there is loose and we have to line it with anti-rattle/sound deadener....ive never done that before.


Im lazy and have no time, do you recommend a "spray-liner type-in-a-can" I can do my self? Id have to tape/masking and cover with newspapers the rear speaker cones/magnets. Take off the gray thin trunk liners too.
If you get a mono amp with speaker wire inputs then you can just unhook the sub and plug the wires into an amp and hook that to a boxed sub and away you go. No need to remove the factory sub. If you have an amp you love with only line level inputs then get an audio control lc2i line converter. It will hook to the woofers speaker wires and output line level so you can hook to any mono block amp. It has accubass that allows you to recover bass that the system auto chokes down to keep the cheap factory sub from blowing when too much bass comes through. If you need any other info feel free to msg me.
I already have a JL Audio 10" sub/amplifier built-into it. It's a all in one sub/amp (pic)
 

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Does it have line level inputs only or does it have speaker inputs too? If it only has line level then get the lc2i line converter with accubass and hook it to the car's subwoofer speaker wire inputs and yfen hook into the jl and wire the jl for power and you're all set.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Does it have line level inputs only or does it have speaker inputs too? If it only has line level then get the lc2i line converter with accubass and hook it to the car's subwoofer speaker wire inputs and yfen hook into the jl and wire the jl for power and you're all set.
This is the side controls
 

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Does it have line level inputs only or does it have speaker inputs too? If it only has line level then get the lc2i line converter with accubass and hook it to the car's subwoofer speaker wire inputs and yfen hook into the jl and wire the jl for power and you're all set.
This is the side controls
Okay you have line level inputs. You need to get an lc2i by audio control. It can connect to the sub speaker wire inputs and that will convert it to line level outputs to go to the sub. After that the lc2i and the sub need to be powered and then you tune and go. Not a hard install. A local Best buy can do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If I have BestBuy do it, is there any precautions (heads up) I should tell them to not touch? This car is soo new, and everything is so integrated-as-one, it's scary if they disconnect one wire by accident then there goes my HVAC controls...


😞
 

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If I have BestBuy do it, is there any precautions (heads up) I should tell them to not touch? This car is soo new, and everything is so integrated-as-one, it's scary if they disconnect one wire by accident then there goes my HVAC controls...


😞
There's not much they will have to touch in this install. They just have to power the sub and lc2i via the battery and have a line hooked up to make sure the sub shuts off with the car. It's not a touchy install. If you feel better go to a custom shop, it'll cost more, but they have more knowledge. None of the install for the sub will involve touching the head unit so don't worry.
 
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