One and half years later, I finally got around to fixing the coil wiring harness in a more permanent manner, but it was not without hiccups.
First off, I ordered the wrong connector. This is only an issue if you intend to replace the entire connector. In my case, I only harvested the pin receptacle and wire. In the pic you can see the differences with the guide slots. Red is bad, Green is good.
It was easier to just harvest the pin, out of the backshell. The trick is to insert a small screwdriver or tweezer to release the pin. Inserting an object pushes away a plastic latch, which you can then pull the wire, grommet, and pin receptacle out.
so this is what I was left with do the job. Raychem crimper, 20-26 awg crimp splicer, waterproof shrink tubing, and wire/pin receptacle/grommet combo.
I removed the damaged pin from the original Honda Denso backshell, and cut the wire. Its best to splice the wire where the wire lays flat and has not bend. Insert crimp slice, shrink tube and crimp. Here you can see one side is crimped. The Raychem crimper makes very secure crimps. This is high quality stuff, mil spec and used in higher end electronic and military repair. It's aerospace grade and probably acceptable for some aerospace grade repairs as MIL-S-81824 is now absorbed into an SAE AS spec (SAE Aerospace). Again, thanks to
WorldThatHeSees for turning me onto this stuff.
MIL spec says these are for crimping silver or tin plated wires. The crimps themselves are tin plated copper. so using these on bare copper wires is likely not an issue.
I decided to put a flame resistant cloth behind the wires as I melted the shrink tube with a heat gun. Stupid me, I didn't realize until i looked at the pics that I didn't fully melt the shrink tube on the left end. when it's fully heated, there is sealant that liquifies and seals the splice from water as the tubing shrinks. The liquid solidifies as heat is removed. Again, I was stupid and I didn't realize it until after I had finished the whole job and I wasn't about to undo all the electrical tape.
I couldn't find my high temp Kapton tape, so I ended up just using household vinyl electrical tape. I suppose if it's starts coming apart, I'll have an excuse in the future to take it off and heat the splice shrink tube to fully seal it next time. Anyways, I don't really anticipate water getting into the enjoy or power washing the engine bay, so this fix is probably as good as it will be for 90% of cars with that had their coil pack harnesses replaced. It's good enough for me to say, I'm done with it and won't worry about my wife getting stranded on the side of the road.