[Wifey'sInsight]

Can you talk about that more? My gut tells me that adaptive cruise control, just like cruise control, is focusing on MPH instead of MPG.

I like to use Sport when I'm merging onto the freeway, EV when I'm on a straightaway in traffic (no temptation to accelerate), and Eco everywhere else. I did try my daily commute in both Eco and normal. 48 MPG normal, 52 MPG Eco. My commute is 30 miles one way and very hilly.

I've tested and found that ACC on highway does change the battery charging profile. With ACC from speeds of 52-68 I've noticed that the car in normal will charge to 80%, switch to EV, and discharge back to 40%. It will even hold EV beyond the blue section of the power band. It's a very repetitive cycle that yields better gas mileage than the standard, ev engagement system, during my testing, I've noticed at least a 3mpg higher average with ACC versus manual speed control.

Generally I use ECO for 45 mph or slower, roads.
Normal for 55+ highway.
Sport is only used situationally, either for forced battery charging, or when I need the Powa!!!

 

[insightfully]

Generally I use ECO for 45 mph or slower, roads.
Normal for 55+ highway.
Sport is only used situationally, either for forced battery charging, or when I need the Powa!!!

Are there any situations in which you prefer to use/select EV mode?

 

[Wifey'sInsight]

Are there any situations in which you prefer to use/select EV mode?

Absolutely, especially when I know the route well. I've managed several 5-6 mile drives in the 100+ mpg area using traffic circles, and 30mph roads with long descents to my advantage.

I'll force EV mode when I have battery built up, especially after a cold start where a few traffic lights killed my mpg average.

I also use it for acceleration as well, say from a red light to 40mph, and switch back off to eco when conditions seem appropriate. I don't use it however when I am in traffic, or if I am concerned with terrain. My goal is to only have the ICE running while the vehicle is moving. It hurts on the inside when I pull up to a light and the engine is still running because the battery got so depleted.

 

[Moviemike]

I was driving normal all the time because I was tired of having to floor it all the time like in ECO but I've gone back to Eco for the mileage. I just switch between sport and eco.......

Page 467 of the my downloaded owners manual states; "The ECON mode helps you improve your fuel economy by adjusting the performance of the climate control system and the accelerator pedal response." Looks like your experience might fit in the "..adjusting.. the accelerator pedal response" area?

I've been doing pretty much what Wifey'sInsight says below. However I'll also push the SPORT button about a mile prior to a major hill climb, to build up the battery before I get there. (A stronger battery seems to yield lower prm during the climb!!) Often I'll push SPORT again to turn it off 3/4 of the way up the hill, and even push EV on (if 3-4 bars are available) for the final push to the top.

Generally I use ECO for 45 mph or slower, roads.
Normal for 55+ highway.
Sport is only used situationally, either for forced battery charging, or when I need the Powa!!!

 

[Moviemike]

Absolutely, especially when I know the route well. I've managed several 5-6 mile drives in the 100+ mpg area using traffic circles, and 30mph roads with long descents to my advantage.

I'll force EV mode when I have battery built up, especially after a cold start where a few traffic lights killed my mpg average.

I also use it for acceleration as well, say from a red light to 40mph, and switch back off to eco when conditions seem appropriate. I don't use it however when I am in traffic, or if I am concerned with terrain. My goal is to only have the ICE running while the vehicle is moving. It hurts on the inside when I pull up to a light and the engine is still running because the battery got so depleted.

I'm doing the same!!! .... 3-4 bars is enough to "force''' EV. If there is a flat stretch as part of a long hill climb I'll try to force EV off - ICE on, for low rpm battery charging - anticipating the next "leg" of the hill climb.

 

[Wifey'sInsight]

I know I've posted about it before, but Sport mode use for me is 99% about battery charging.

 

[andrew28]

I was driving normal all the time because I was tired of having to floor it all the time like in ECO but I've gone back to Eco for the mileage. I just switch between sport and eco. I have found that hills can be a mpg killer. My commute to work which is overall downhill I get high 50s to 60 and back home in the 40's.
I do like the acceleration from a complete stop. That little jump gets past many of the gas powered folks.

I do sport mode sometimes to switch to the correct lane after I get the green light. It's fun and I don't have to worry about people speeding up fast enough to prevent me from doing the lane change majority of the time. (Not possible in a Prius )

You will get use to the ECO gas pedal feel if you use it more often. I didn't like the slow lag like feel initially until I forced myself to use it more. Driving in ECO will retrain your lead foot and reward you with better MPGs. :smile_big:

 

[Teedubb]

Sport Mode Access

It would be great if sport mode was accessible on the steering wheel. I use sport mode most often while accelerating while merging into traffic, especially on a hill. Having it readily available without having to glance down would be safer.

 

[Verdier]

It would be great if sport mode was accessible on the steering wheel. I use sport mode most often while accelerating while merging into traffic, especially on a hill. Having it readily available without having to glance down would be safer.

Actually that's a very good idea. 👍

 

[pasei]

Record on my commute today... 61.2mpg! And just 48°F, no sun... (I kind of cheated though I started with a 7-bar battery, ended up at 3, but don't tell anyone).

I've been paying more attention to the blue gauge and basically I try to avoid at all cost the "squirrels" (@hasarad term?) screaming under the hood. It kind of coincides with the end of the blue zone, but not always. Good practice?

 

[insightfully]

I've been paying more attention to the blue gauge and basically I try to avoid at all cost the "squirrels" (@hasarad term?) screaming under the hood. It kind of coincides with the end of the blue zone, but not always. Good practice?

Yes, good practice IMO. Staying in the 'blue zone' means the throttle is being applied in a low/controlled way, which helps keep the car more in EV/hybrid mode.

Here are a couple examples of how RPM and MPG relate to the different colored sections:
- RPMs measured by @Honda2019 - https://www.gen3insight.com/forum/11604-post20.html
- Gauge illustration from Accord forum - https://www.gen3insight.com/forum/10376-post6.html

 

[andrew28]

Record on my commute today... 61.2mpg! And just 48°F, no sun... (I kind of cheated though I started with a 7-bar battery, ended up at 3, but don't tell anyone).

I've been paying more attention to the blue gauge and basically I try to avoid at all cost the "squirrels" (@hasarad term?) screaming under the hood. It kind of coincides with the end of the blue zone, but not always. Good practice?

I always stay in the blue segment on the power gauge with a few exceptions.

• Climbing a steep hill
• Keeping up with traffic and lane changing by doing a short burst of acceleration

 

[Moviemike]

I always stay in the blue segment on the power gauge with a few exceptions.

• Climbing a steep hill
• Keeping up with traffic and lane changing by doing a short burst of acceleration

As do I. But when it comes to the exceptions above, I'll try to access engine off operation by pushing the white EV button and then trying to keep the power meter in the yellow.

 

[andrew28]

As do I. But when it comes to the exceptions above, I'll try to access engine off operation by pushing the white EV button and then trying to keep the power meter in the yellow.

There's a yellow segment on the power meter?

 

[hasarad]

I don't have a yellow section in the power band. If I did, perhaps I'd get better MPGs!

 

[andrew28]

I don't have a yellow section in the power band. If I did, perhaps I'd get better MPGs!

That's why @Moviemike's fuelly average is 2.1mpg higher than yours.

 

[hasarad]

That's why @Moviemike's fuelly average is 2.1mpg higher than yours.

Totally LOLz!

 

[insightfully]

There's a yellow segment on the power meter?

With the new site format it's a little hard to see, but to help clarify, @Moviemike is referring to the image you previously shared with us from Accord forum, and which I re-quoted above. "Yellow" refers to the upper half of the blue range on the power/charge meter.

http://imgur.com/Ds0X0F2

 

[Moviemike]

THANK YOU Insightfully, the above is exactly what I was referring to.

I rarely get to the orange zone above. If I do it's usually when getting on to the freeway or mountain climbing. I'm routinely in the yellow, and in EV as much as I can, when I do so. The yellow usually provides enough acceleration to avoid obstructing traffic while providing the desired acceleration, to get the car up to cruising speed or up a small hill

Generally I like to look for opportunities to run with the power meter half way through the blue zone (above), while the engine is on. The idea here is to be recharging the battery at a low rpm.

Wether all this adds up to my 2.1 mpg lead over personages from rural New Jersey is hard to say, but it is the most efficient use of the 2 motor system I've been able to figure, to date.

 

[hasarad]

Whether all this adds up to my 2.1 mpg lead over personages from rural New Jersey is hard to say, but it is the most efficient use of the 2 motor system I've been able to figure, to date.

Thanks for the chuckle Mike. After all this time, I think it's time for me to bow down to your awesomer mpg-ness.

Check me to see if my thinking is right. I have come to realize that keeping things in the blue means the engine output is sufficient to provide all power that is needed (and then some) based on the demand. Anything between the needle and top line of the blue, while the engine is running, is excess and is banked in the batteries as engine output exceeds what is being drawn to power the wheels. This may be a dirty assumption, but it's my perception after 30,000 miles.