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The only changes to the algorithm in #4 are done by the drive mode you are in (ECO/Normal/Sport). Here's the deal in a nutshell:

Any exceeding of the blue power band in any drive mode normally invokes the ICE.

Sport Mode will always attempt to keep the battery at 80% for power reserve.

ECO and normal mode will kick in the ICE when battery falls to 4 bars or less or sometimes when power is in the top half of the blue power band with less than half battery.

EV mode will kick in the ICE when battery drops to two bars or blue band is exceeded.

And, most annoyingly, The ICE will just kick in in any mode until the battery is near full with no reason stated when trying, unsuccessfully, to engage EV mode when it should be available. I'm open to hearing reasons for this. It only seems to happen one time in any drive. I am relating this to some type of battery maintenance/calibration, but I'd really like to know the true answer - all the display will show at the time is "EV Mode Unavailable."


Cluster and center console-wise, I keep the current drive trip meter range and fuel in the cluster and Waze in the center console. I find the power band around the range and fuel to be the most beneficial in helping to drive efficiently. I am more concerned with power in/power out than where the power is going (to battery or wheels). After all, the goal is to use a little power as possible to get the results we're seeking. Knowing where you are on the power band helps you be better able to work to engage the EV side of things and avoid the ICE running when you know you have just that "little bit" to go before you hit the paydirt of a downhill. I live in a hilly part of NJ, so it's become a game for me.
As for the ICE kicking in until the battery is almost full for no reason at all - I believe this MAY have something to do with the evaporative system.. Because we drive a hybrid - the engine although warmed up, may not be able to pull all the extra emissions caught in the charcoal canister system - and this is part of the cycle that does it. I have noticed it happens more frequently when first starting up rather than when I have been driving all day (and I do drive all day)..
 

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As for the ICE kicking in until the battery is almost full for no reason at all - I believe this MAY have something to do with the evaporative system.. Because we drive a hybrid - the engine although warmed up, may not be able to pull all the extra emissions caught in the charcoal canister system - and this is part of the cycle that does it. I have noticed it happens more frequently when first starting up rather than when I have been driving all day (and I do drive all day)..
I never thought of that! The fact the DII simply states "EV mode unavailable" is unacceptable. With the tech in this car, I'd like to know the reason for it!
 

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As for the ICE kicking in until the battery is almost full for no reason at all - I believe this MAY have something to do with the evaporative system.. Because we drive a hybrid - the engine although warmed up, may not be able to pull all the extra emissions caught in the charcoal canister system - and this is part of the cycle that does it. I have noticed it happens more frequently when first starting up rather than when I have been driving all day (and I do drive all day)..

When fuel evaporates inside the gas tank, the excess vapors are transferred to the charcoal canister. They're stored there until they can safely be transferred back to the engine to be burned with the normal air-fuel mixture. When that's ready to happen, a valve creates a vacuum that draws the vapors into the engine. Fresh air is also drawn in through the vents and valves to mix with the vapors for better combustion. These systems can be controlled mechanically, or like on most on newer cars, through the engine's computer. The computer tells the valves when to purge the canister of vapors. This typically happens when the car is in motion, rather than at idle.
I think you solved the mystery of why we can't EV mode with full battery including when in Normal/Eco mode, too.
 

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Your CMBS should be working if you're not seeing any error messages when you start the car. You can try blocking the radar & windshield camera with something as a test to see if a warning shows up asking you to clear the obstruction.
The radar and front camera affect multiple systems, so it's hard to decouple 'just' the CMBS isn't working. For example, when the Safety Support Indicator (car icon w/ circle around it) turns amber, it signals a problem with either the RDM or CMBS and doesn't specify. (But maybe conversely, you can assume that if one isn't working, both aren't working -?). It's interesting/odd that these two Sensing features are paired in the alert system, because CMBS relies on radar and camera, while RDM only relies on camera.
 

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The radar and front camera affect multiple systems, so it's hard to decouple 'just' the CMBS isn't working. For example, when the Safety Support Indicator (car icon w/ circle around it) turns amber, it signals a problem with either the RDM or CMBS and doesn't specify. (But maybe conversely, you can assume that if one isn't working, both aren't working -?). It's interesting/odd that these two Sensing features are paired in the alert system, because CMBS relies on radar and camera, while RDM only relies on camera.
Also when it does fail, your dash will freak out with a bunch of warnings, and as previously mentioned the amber symbols.

These warnings will take up the gauge portion of the DII, and require you to press the left dial to dismiss them one by one. Also on the infotainment screen, on the top margin, there will be a box with an orange symbol, that when tapped will also display all of the vehicle warnings, with slightly more information, but not enough to diagnose.
 
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Also when it does fail, your dash will freak out with a bunch of warnings, and as previously mentioned the amber symbols.

These warnings will take up the gauge portion of the DII, and require you to press the left dial to dismiss them one by one. Also on the infotainment screen, on the top margin, there will be a box with an orange symbol, that when tapped will also display all of the vehicle warnings, with slightly more information, but not enough to diagnose.
Helpful info, thanks! Wasn't aware of the symbol and scroll-thru on the infotainment system. (But hoping it's a long while before I'll need to use!)
 

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Helpful info, thanks! Wasn't aware of the symbol and scroll-thru on the infotainment system. (But hoping it's a long while before I'll need to use!)
I've experienced it once, about 3 days after we took delivery. The whole system freaked out, (assuming software bug or an invalid value that caused a bcm freeze), and by the end of the day and restarting (with ~10 Minutes turned off), it fixed itself.
 

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2. How to Tell If CMBS Functioning?
How can I tell if the Collision Mitigation Brake System is working? I test drove a Honda Accord Hybrid during our shopping for a new car and found that it was phenomenally good at warning you when you were going a bit too fast relative to the car ahead of you, say one that had slowed down or stopped or was slowly making a turn. Alas, in the Insight, the orange BRAKE warning never seems to come on, even in situations when it did with the Accord. I’ve now changed the setting for it from Normal to Long and, finally, the other day, it came on once, but it still rarely comes on in situations when I know it should and where it did with the Accord.​

3. Speed Limit Sign in Center Info Panel?
Is there any way of showing the Speed Limit sign in the center console (information display)? That’s a request from a front-seat passenger.​
I found a couple additional options which may be worth looking at, to help the two points asked above:

Is CMBS Functioning?: there's a selection in the Driver Information Interface (DII) called "Safety Support" which shows the operating state of CMBS and RDM. The status of each is indicated by color (green = on, gray = off, amber = problem). CMBS is indicated in the area in front of / atop the car icon, and RDM is to the sides of the icon.

Speed Limit Sign Display: while the speed limit info can't be shown on the infotainment screen, there is option to show a larger display/image of it to the driver on the DII. The selection is called "Traffic Sign" and will show up in the inner circle display of the the Power/Charge meter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Thanks! That light, like those on Apollo 11, are indicators... which may not reflect real world status!

My light is green, has been green, and, as I mentioned, I changed the distance to Long, so the warning would come on sooner. I'm trying to figure out if there's a way of determining that it actually is working. I suppose I could drive quickly and too closely to another car to see, but that wouldn't be a good idea for all sorts of reasons! 😎

The orange BRAKE warning rarely comes on even in situations where it should and in cases where the Honda Accord hybrid's warning did!

Perhaps hearing from people about when their BRAKE warning comes on would help me gauge if mine is functioning as it should!
 

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My light is green, has been green, and, as I mentioned, I changed the distance to Long, so the warning would come on sooner. I'm trying to figure out if there's a way of determining that it actually is working. I suppose I could drive quickly and too closely to another car to see, but that wouldn't be a good idea for all sorts of reasons! ��

The orange BRAKE warning rarely comes on even in situations where it should and in cases where the Honda Accord hybrid's warning did!

Perhaps hearing from people about when their BRAKE warning comes on would help me gauge if mine is functioning as it should!
Wondering if you've had a chance to try the "following distance" display suggested in post #2? Since the braking interval is time-based and changes with speed, the following-distance screen may give you a sense for the different ranges the car assess for braking, before the BRAKE warning comes up.

While not perfectly identical to the Accord, there's a view available on the (DII) that shows the distance between you and the vehicle ahead of you; the image turns amber when the distance between vehicles is too close (Attachment 4).​
 

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Thanks! That light, like those on Apollo 11, are indicators... which may not reflect real world status!

My light is green, has been green, and, as I mentioned, I changed the distance to Long, so the warning would come on sooner. I'm trying to figure out if there's a way of determining that it actually is working. I suppose I could drive quickly and too closely to another car to see, but that wouldn't be a good idea for all sorts of reasons! 😎

The orange BRAKE warning rarely comes on even in situations where it should and in cases where the Honda Accord hybrid's warning did!

Perhaps hearing from people about when their BRAKE warning comes on would help me gauge if mine is functioning as it should!
as part of my constant complaints on the adaptive cruise control not recognizing cars when they are parked at a stoplight when you are driving 30 miles per hour, I have to say I never get a brake warning in these situations and I think that is kind of scary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Oops! I spoke too soon about what trip meters can show!

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"insightfully, thanks!

*******My question: “1. Multi-trip MPG Display? Is there any of showing the MPG for the last three or four trips, along with the miles driven for each?”

Your spot on reply: “If you have one of the trip meters reset for each drive, this would show the result summary you requested. ... Attachment 1 is example from @hasarad on infotainment screen...”

Bingo! That will do it.

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Nope, I'm wrong. I just looked again at that attachment and what it shows is the accumulated mileage at the end of each drive.

I'm interested in seeing the distance traveled during each drive, along with its MPG. That way, I can tell how I'm doing on shorter drives vs. longer ones.

Any ideas about that?

Of course, as a former math teacher, I could do a quick mental subtraction, but that's not as helpful as I'd have to do it for each A-B comparison, and then compare the subtractions. Better to see it at a glance.

Now, I need to figure out whether to go back to manual reset! (I'm sitting in our living room and haven't driven since I switched Trip B meter to Ignition Off. I think I better step into the garage and change it back to manual reset!)

Perhaps, I'm looking for the proverbial unicorn of MPG displays!
 

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nope, i'm wrong. i just looked again at that attachment and what it shows is the accumulated mileage at the end of each drive.

i'm interested in seeing the distance traveled during each drive, along with its mpg. that way, i can tell how i'm doing on shorter drives vs. Longer ones.

Any ideas about that?
There isn't a 'single' place for everything you're seeking, but a combination of settings/screens might provide what you're looking for as "distance traveled during each drive & mpg":

- On Infotainment Screen: Set a trip meter to reset when ignition is turned off; INFOTAINMENT screen will show distance traveled for the trip and fuel economy for the 4 most recent drives (attachment 1 in post #2)

- On DII Screen: Set driver information interface (DII) display to "Range & Fuel" view for that same trip meter; DII screen will show distance traveled for the trip and 'instant' real time fuel economy feedback for the current drive (attachment 5 in post #2)
 

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I'm interested in seeing the distance traveled during each drive, along with its MPG. That way, I can tell how I'm doing on shorter drives vs. longer ones.
I have trip-A set to reset at IGNOFF which results in each drive, and trip-B set top reset at tank full-up. Using the trip meter app in the center console will let you look at the current and last three trip resets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Will any of those show miles driven during the previous trips? In other words, hypotheticals: previous trip was 4 miles at 114mpg; one before that was 15 miles at 54mpg; and one before that was 20 miles at 60mpg — or some such.

Right now, I'm leaving Trip A as manual reset. It shows me my mpg since we got the car. Trip B used to be manual reset; then I switched it to IGN Off, and now I’m going to try at Fuel Up.

I’m about to go and fill it up for the first time!
 

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Will any of those show miles driven during the previous trips? In other words, hypotheticals: previous trip was 4 miles at 114mpg; one before that was 15 miles at 54mpg; and one before that was 20 miles at 60mpg — or some such.

Right now, I'm leaving Trip A as manual reset. It shows me my mpg since we got the car. Trip B used to be manual reset; then I switched it to IGN Off, and now I’m going to try at Fuel Up.
Resetting the trip meter at "ignition off" will show miles driven on prior trip (i.e. between presses of power off button).

Since you've already had Trip B set to "IGN OFF" you should be able to look on the infotainment screen for the distance/mpg history that you've been looking for: TRIP COMPUTER --> TRIP B (tab). Hopefully you'll look at this before you change your Trip B reset settings and/or reset Trip B. See example from hasarad from post #2 (attachment 1) and re-posted here for your reference.

Separate from this, if you want to see "real-time"/dynamic mpg for your current driving conditions, use the "RANGE & FUEL" display on the drivers information interface (DII). It will give you a 'preview' of the mpg for your current drive that will be tracked with the Trip B meter (assuming you return it back to "IGN OFF" reset). Attachment example from post #2 is re-posted here as well for your quick reference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
Absolutely right, of course! And, as you anticipated, I did indeed look at my Trip B meter, the one set to IGN off, before changing that option back to manual.

I found that it provides exactly what I was looking for. It shows the last four trips, with distance traveled on each trip and the accompanying MPG.

So, I left it as IGN off and then refueled the car.

I've attached a photo here so that others (if any) confused by all the Trip Meter options can see what shows up with Trip Meter B set to IGN off -- especially, for those of us who mostly do only very short drives.

What threw me about the previous attachment was the VERY HIGH numbers for miles traveled. We drive so little that when I saw distances in the 500, 600 range (and a quick glance looked like they had gotten bigger), I mistakenly assumed it was showing accumulated miles!

-----------------------------------------------

As to my display, it's interesting that the two in-between runs -- a short run from gas station to grocery store and a short run from the grocery store to a friend's house -- which should have been entirely or mostly on EV -- ended up with poor MPG. The other trips, well over 60 mpg, were more like it!
 

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Absolutely right, of course! And, as you anticipated, I did indeed look at my Trip B meter, the one set to IGN off, before changing that option back to manual.

I found that it provides exactly what I was looking for. It shows the last four trips, with distance traveled on each trip and the accompanying MPG.

So, I left it as IGN off and then refueled the car.

I've attached a photo here so that others (if any) confused by all the Trip Meter options can see what shows up with Trip Meter B set to IGN off -- especially, for those of us who mostly do only very short drives.

What threw me about the previous attachment was the VERY HIGH numbers for miles traveled. We drive so little that when I saw distances in the 500, 600 range (and a quick glance looked like they had gotten bigger), I mistakenly assumed it was showing accumulated miles!

-----------------------------------------------

As to my display, it's interesting that the two in-between runs -- a short run from gas station to grocery store and a short run from the grocery store to a friend's house -- which should have been entirely or mostly on EV -- ended up with poor MPG. The other trips, well over 60 mpg, were more like it!
I run into the same issue with low mpg because I live only 1-2 miles from the stores I frequent, i.e., Kroger and/or Walmart for groceries. Going to the store is slightly uphill and coming back home is better as it is downhill.
 

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As to my display, it's interesting that the two in-between runs -- a short run from gas station to grocery store and a short run from the grocery store to a friend's house -- which should have been entirely or mostly on EV -- ended up with poor MPG. The other trips, well over 60 mpg, were more like it!
The gas engine tends to run more after cold start (and has a fixed/minimum run length before turning off), so a low mpg result will occur if the drive distance is shorter than this engine-run period.

In warm weather, I'd estimate that my result to level out after 3-5 miles of driving (offsetting the earlier gas engine / cold start). In cold weather, it's maybe 5-7 miles to get to that stability point where the mpg reading represents my actual drive.
 
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