[Richsaint]

A few days ago I got the notification that my trunk was open.

I thought "huh, I must have....done something?" So brushed it off. Then it happened again a few days later.

Then the weird **** started.

Starting last Monday on my way to work I got a notification that my gas door was open. I started to brush it off, but then thought back and realized I had gotten gas 3 days before. So I brushed it off as "I must have accidentally held in the button and opened it myself...."

I love my car, its not without its issues, but I love the **** out of my car. I tend to brush off most stuff as me being overly critical, so this happening I did too.

Then it happened again. This time I was driving and I heard it happen. You know the little bit of a "ding" noise that the fuel door makes when it releases? I heard it and got the notification right after. I tried to call a dealership but service was closed. It happened two more time on the way too and from work. I decided to get gas that day and try again. I got gas and got in the car and noticed that it didn't fill up all the way, it auto stopped at just shy of 8 gallons and on the meter the bar only had 9 bars on it. Again I brushed it off.

It happened one more time that day on the way to the store after getting gas. I decided I'd wait out the weekend and call the dealership the next week. Then Sunday came. Everytime I got in my car on Sunday it happened. Driving for more than 5-10 minutes it happened. I decided I'd call on Monday. Sunday as I drove around my stereo god **** lost its mind. Carplay froze, it popped on screen and said something like "Phone connector has failed" or something like that and carplay exited. Then the stereo froze completely and I got a flood of other error messages about services stopping including "power flow has halted". I rebooted the car stereo, rebooted the car, unplugged my phone, did everything a few times and finally just reset my stereo to factory. This is the third time I've had to do this. It really sucked because it knocked out my Sirius presets.

Monday morning I got a message that my tire pressure was bad. The car has 14k miles on it, if I'm having tire issues I have a flat. So I immediately pulled off at a gas station. They all checked out as having around 35lbs of pressure in them so the light is wrong (still on today). I then went over to get gas. I had 4/10 of a tank. I put the nozzle in and it stopped almost immediately. It stopped over and over and over again, every 1/3-1/2 a gallon. I finally gave up after putting around 3 gallons in because I was so frustrated. It was at this point that I called in to Honda.

The rest of Monday was Wash, Rinse, Repeat. The same issues occurring over and over again until today on the way to the dealership. The car was acting a little weird, then it flashed up the most ominous warning sign to this point.

Emissions System Problem. Power May Be Reduced. See Your Dealership.

So now I have a whole new slew of **** to talk to the dealership about tomorrow. I was leaning towards theres an electrical problem with the car, I am now 99% sure its an electrical problem. Has anyone else heard of this?

 

[insightfully]

The issues you've mentioned have come up before, but moreso individually rather than as the 'quadfecta' you experienced. If it helps (?) the "Emissions" and "Gas Door" issues may be related (i.e. 1 issue rather than 2), since the door being open while driving can trigger the emissions message.

Your individual symptoms are different, but I wonder if you have same 'faulty computer module' issue as mentioned in the 'emissions' link below.

Links to some of the prior threads reference/comparison to your situation:

Trunk open (fewest examples of this, prior mentions of trunk hard to close) - https://www.gen3insight.com/forum/2...ssues-you-having-your-insight-7.html#post5356
Gas door open - https://www.gen3insight.com/forum/2...oblems/588-fuel-door-opening-no-reason-6.html
Carplay froze - https://www.gen3insight.com/forum/2...t-issues-crash-restart-blank-3.html#post16372
Tire pressure error - https://www.gen3insight.com/forum/1...monitoring-system-tpms-problems-errors-4.html
Emissions System Problem - https://www.gen3insight.com/forum/2...s/2158-new-car-friday-tow-truck-saturday.html​

 

[Wifey'sInsight]

Most likely they'll pull codes, reset everything and test your battery. The Achilles heel of this car is the 12v battery. The onboard systems don't like voltage fluctuations at all, almost every "electrical issue" with this car I've seen, has had some mention of the dealership checking the 12v battery. The two times I've been in for Electrical gremlins, both times they tested the 12v battery. Last time there was a software update for the car (not the infotainment system).

Gas door open would lead me to believe that there is a bad sensor (evap. pressure of some sort), that could be caused by low system voltage rather than a sensor failure.

TPMS will always be finicky, and prone to voltage irregularities.

The trunk sensor should be a fairly simple sensor, so I don't see why voltage irregularities would affect that, unless the voltage problems are causing the bcm to field a bunch of erroneous values at the same time.

After sustained erroneous evaporation system readings, the car may have crossed the threshold to actually display a warning message, most likely an electrical issue, that would be my assumption too.

The only odd thing is the gas not filling properly, unless there is some sort of solenoid that actually opens and closes, it would immediately lead me to believe that the charcoal canister is full of fuel. This at 14,000 miles would likely point to constant overfilling, as the only user error likely. More likely is that because of the fuel error, the system isn't actually releasing pressure when you hold down the fuel door button, this pressure is causing the pump to click off prematurely.

 

[Richsaint]

Yeah, computer is my other thought on it.


Its gone from bad to worse to an extent though. I dropped it off last night at a different dealer, they called honda today and honda refused to allow them to work on it because another dealer had already worked on it. I now have to go get it and drop it off at my original dealer tonight.

 

[insightfully]

Yeah, computer is my other thought on it.

Its gone from bad to worse to an extent though. I dropped it off last night at a different dealer, they called honda today and honda refused to allow them to work on it because another dealer had already worked on it. I now have to go get it and drop it off at my original dealer tonight.

That surprises me and/or sounds odd... Does this mean warranty work can only be done at the original place that discovered an issue? My understanding of the Honda warranty was that it for any/every dealer, rather than just one.

 

[Wifey'sInsight]

That surprises me and/or sounds odd... Does this mean warranty work can only be done at the original place that discovered an issue? My understanding of the Honda warranty was that it for any/every dealer, rather than just one.

Yes and No. From my experience, manufacturers like to give a dealership a couple of attempts to fix a problem, instead of paying out multiple warranty claims to multiple dealerships. If they can't resolve the issue, as the vehicle owner, call the manufacturers customer support number and tell them that you don't have faith in them being able to fix the specific issue due to several attempts to make it right, not working out. (Depends on the manufacturer, but 2 attempts should be enough to satisfy this.).

It also depends on the type of warranty work, more simple tasks would be less likely to run into this hurdle, or if say your first dealership visit was at a dealership out of town.

Just out of curiosity, what did the first dealership do, to rectify the problem?

 

[AllBlackTouring19]

So I had this issue twice on my 2019 Insight and even the dealership couldnt figure it out, they assumed it was just a faulty battery. After they changed the battery the first time, I had the same thing happen again a few weeks later. The issue would arise for no apparent reason. The trunk would not open. Dash displayed errors saying no ABS available, no lane departure monitoring available, no mitigation system available etc. The way I fixed the issue is to manually open the trunk and this reset the system. To manually open the trunk, you need to go in the back seat. Behind the head rest on the right side you will see a small square compartment that can be opened by inserting a key and lifting it open. When opened, you will see a latch you can pull and that will manually open the trunk and reset the system. I've seen a few threads on this forum with people claiming they had the same issue. Hope this helps!

 

[yecam]

I had something similar that was eventually tracked down to some missing clips on the radar assembly located on the driver side of the front bumper. Once the radar assembly managed to get itself out of alignment with the camera on the front window I started seeing all of the messages that you are now seeing. I don't recall having a problem with the the trunk but I usually just use the trunk opening latch at the back of the car. Those clips are a bit flimsy so I was not too surprised to see them missing since a bit of friction is the only thing holding them in place.

 

[insightfully]

So I had this issue twice on my 2019 Insight and even the dealership couldnt figure it out, they assumed it was just a faulty battery. After they changed the battery the first time, I had the same thing happen again a few weeks later. The issue would arise for no apparent reason. The trunk would not open. Dash displayed errors saying no ABS available, no lane departure monitoring available, no mitigation system available etc. The way I fixed the issue is to manually open the trunk and this reset the system.

Thanks for sharing, and welcome to the forum. You're right that there are several electrical issues that have been reported, and battery replacement has been one of the first things checked/attempted.

Did your dealer share any info on what the battery charge level or problem codes were? What led your dealer to manually open the trunk and how did it reset the system?

 

[AllBlackTouring19]

Thanks for sharing, and welcome to the forum. You're right that there are several electrical issues that have been reported, and battery replacement has been one of the first things checked/attempted.

Did your dealer share any info on what the battery charge level or problem codes were? What led your dealer to manually open the trunk and how did it reset the system?

They just told me the battery level was low and that it needed to be changed. After changing the battery, i still had the same issue weeks later. When it happened again and the trunk wouldnt open, I just looked in the manual and found the steps on how to open the trunk manually and this instantly fixed the problem. All issues on the dash went away.

 

[insightfully]

They just told me the battery level was low and that it needed to be changed. After changing the battery, i still had the same issue weeks later. When it happened again and the trunk wouldnt open, I just looked in the manual and found the steps on how to open the trunk manually and this instantly fixed the problem. All issues on the dash went away.

Interesting... so you solved the issue yourself by doing the manual trunk opening. It almost sounds like if not the 12V battery, the security system can get confused (?). How long has it been since this resolve the issue (i.e. longer success duration than after battery replacement)?

 

[insightfully]

I had something similar that was eventually tracked down to some missing clips on the radar assembly located on the driver side of the front bumper. Once the radar assembly managed to get itself out of alignment with the camera on the front window I started seeing all of the messages that you are now seeing. I don't recall having a problem with the the trunk but I usually just use the trunk opening latch at the back of the car. Those clips are a bit flimsy so I was not too surprised to see them missing since a bit of friction is the only thing holding them in place.

I get how Honda Sensing would fault if the radar is misaligned, but did your radar misalignment/clip issues also trigger an ABS error message as mentioned above? I didn't think ABS would relate to radar or camera...

 

[yecam]

I don't remember anything specific about an ABS error but it looked like every warning possible came up. I had to **** off each warning individually from the steering wheel select roller before the dashboard stopped being distracting. ABS could have been missing.

 

[Verdier]

I get how Honda Sensing would fault if the radar is misaligned, but did your radar misalignment/clip issues also trigger an ABS error message as mentioned above? I didn't think ABS would relate to radar or camera...

Watching a lot of car repair shows, It seems the ABS light tends to come on for various electronic issues not related to ABS at all. Mechanics have talked about this on many shows. Don't know if this is specific to Hondas, but it does seems to be typical of a lot of modern cars when electronics have failures. Just an interesting point. I think it might be a safety related response since a lot of these systems share the same computers and such. Over my pay grade.

 

[AllBlackTouring19]

Interesting... so you solved the issue yourself by doing the manual trunk opening. It almost sounds like if not the 12V battery, the security system can get confused (?). How long has it been since this resolve the issue (i.e. longer success duration than after battery replacement)?

The last time it happened was about 5 months ago when I tried manually opening the trunk. And it hasnt happened again since then.

 

[AllBlackTouring19]

Watching a lot of car repair shows, It seems the ABS light tends to come on for various electronic issues not related to ABS at all. Mechanics have talked about this on many shows. Don't know if this is specific to Hondas, but it does seems to be typical of a lot of modern cars when electronics have failures. Just an interesting point. I think it might be a safety related response since a lot of these systems share the same computers and such. Over my pay grade.

Are you the same Verdier from Youtube? With the red insight? If so, your videos are great. I was just watching the install video you posted yesterday for the comma two.

 

[insightfully]

Watching a lot of car repair shows, It seems the ABS light tends to come on for various electronic issues not related to ABS at all. Mechanics have talked about this on many shows. Don't know if this is specific to Hondas, but it does seems to be typical of a lot of modern cars when electronics have failures. Just an interesting point. I think it might be a safety related response since a lot of these systems share the same computers and such. Over my pay grade.

Possibly could come up in other instances as well (though I hope not to find out from first-hand experience, knock on wood...). The manual only mentions ABS indicator as being an alert that the anti-lock function is not working.

 

[Verdier]

Are you the same Verdier from Youtube? With the red insight? If so, your videos are great. I was just watching the install video you posted yesterday for the comma two.

Yes I am. Thank you for watching my friend.

 

[Verdier]

Possibly could come up in other instances as well (though I hope not to find out from first-hand experience, knock on wood...). The manual only mentions ABS indicator as being an alert that the anti-lock function is not working.
View attachment 5151

Agreed I hope you never find out. The manual is probably right in the instance of an actual ABS failure, but it's been heavily reported that in many cars the ABS light tends to pop on in instances where there are no ABS problems. Usually this happens in conjunction with other lights like check engine, LKAS, etc...