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Discussion Starter #1
Picked up my 2019 Insight Touring yesterday. Got about 40 mpg on two 12 mi trips with like 3 minutes remote starter before each trip. Driving very eco-friendly, normal mode. Temp 30°F.

1) Seems normal?
2) Will it get better when the engine breaks in?
3) How bad is the remote starter on mpg?
 

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Picked up my 2019 Insight Touring yesterday. Got about 40 mpg on two 12 mi trips with like 3 minutes remote starter before each trip. Driving very eco-friendly, normal mode. Temp 30°F.

1) Seems normal?
2) Will it get better when the engine breaks in?
3) How bad is the remote starter on mpg?
1) It doesn't seem unrealistic.
2) Slightly, ambient temperature and or rolling resistance (snow, rain etc) kills gas mileage. And speeds over 70mph.
3) Remote start= 0mpg. With a touring, I'd set the auto temp, turn your seat heaters on, and try to drive to heat the car. You'll get better numbers. Avoid idling at all costs to improve gas mileage drastically. If you don't mind the cold, or a pair of gloves, I try to drive for ~5 minutes before turning the heat on.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
1) It doesn't seem unrealistic.
2) Slightly, ambient temperature and or rolling resistance (snow, rain etc) kills gas mileage. And speeds over 70mph.
3) Remote start= 0mpg. With a touring, I'd set the auto temp, turn your seat heaters on, and try to drive to heat the car. You'll get better numbers. Avoid idling at all costs to improve gas mileage drastically. If you don't mind the cold, or a pair of gloves, I try to drive for ~5 minutes before turning the heat on.
Thank you! I kinda bought this car for the remote starter haha. But I will test without to see what the influence is!
 

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Thank you! I kinda bought this car for the remote starter haha. But I will test without to see what the influence is!
I'm definitely not telling you not to use it. You can also increase your gas mileage if you can string together shorter trips into one longer trip. There are many different strategies to maximize fuel economy. Increase cold tire pressure, be able to park in a garage in winter etc...

Congratulations on your purchase, by the way.

My testing and personal goals are different than many, I figure that I have an opportunity to test things and provide feedback so that not everyone has to drive to work with mustache icicles.

The fuel economy that you will most likely experience in warmer months will be amazing, winter is particularly hard on hybrids. The Insight was built to be extremely efficient, unfortunately as you become more efficient, outside factors affect your outcome even more.
 

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Picked up my 2019 Insight Touring yesterday. Got about 40 mpg on two 12 mi trips with like 3 minutes remote starter before each trip. Driving very eco-friendly, normal mode. Temp 30°F.

1) Seems normal?
2) Will it get better when the engine breaks in?
3) How bad is the remote starter on mpg?
Welcome to the forum, and congrats on your new ride! At what speed(s) did you drive your 12 mile trips? City mpg is higher than highway mpg rating for the car (51 city / 45 hiway for the Touring trim).
- If driven at highway speed (60+ mph), you 'only' lost 5 mpg (-11%) from colder temps and remote start... which isn't bad at all.
- If driven at city speed (<60 mph), your mpg loss was more appreciable (-22%).​

There are forum members like hasarad who have beaten EPA fuel efficiency from the get-go, so it's hard to directly correlate break-in to mpg improvement. Conditions like temperature, terrain, and driver experience/technique seem to be bigger factors in mpg gains, IMO. Additional thoughts from others on break-in are in the threads below:

And a thread on optimal tire pressures, to add to comment from Wifey'sInsight:

You may want to try Eco mode to see if the dampened throttle response (and climate control) help your fuel efficiency even more than eco-friendly driving in Normal mode. The throttle is more responsive in Normal mode than in Eco mode, so the adjustment may also increase your mpg.

Remote start nets 0 mpg as already mentioned, and always triggers the gas engine to run in cold temperatures. (Gas engine powers the heating; electric engine powers the A/C.)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm definitely not telling you not to use it. You can also increase your gas mileage if you can string together shorter trips into one longer trip. There are many different strategies to maximize fuel economy. Increase cold tire pressure, be able to park in a garage in winter etc...

Congratulations on your purchase, by the way.

My testing and personal goals are different than many, I figure that I have an opportunity to test things and provide feedback so that not everyone has to drive to work with mustache icicles.

The fuel economy that you will most likely experience in warmer months will be amazing, winter is particularly hard on hybrids. The Insight was built to be extremely efficient, unfortunately as you become more efficient, outside factors affect your outcome even more.
Thank you, I'm pretty pumped! Except the dealer handed me a very scratched car so I need to go back so they fix it... Otherwise I'm coming from a 2007 Mazda 3 with manual transmission that was getting something like 22mpg in the winter. Anything above 40 and I'm very happy:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Welcome to the forum, and congrats on your new ride! At what speed(s) did you drive your 12 mile trips? City mpg is higher than highway mpg rating for the car (51 city / 45 hiway for the Touring trim).
- If driven at highway speed (60+ mph), you 'only' lost 5 mpg (-11%) from colder temps and remote start... which isn't bad at all.
- If driven at city speed (<60 mph), your mpg loss was more appreciable (-22%).​

There are forum members like hasarad who have beaten EPA fuel efficiency from the get-go, so it's hard to directly correlate break-in to mpg improvement. Conditions like temperature, terrain, and driver experience/technique seem to be bigger factors in mpg gains, IMO. Additional thoughts from others on break-in are in the threads below:

And a thread on optimal tire pressures, to add to comment from Wifey'sInsight:

You may want to try Eco mode to see if the dampened throttle response (and climate control) help your fuel efficiency even more than eco-friendly driving in Normal mode. The throttle is more responsive in Normal mode than in Eco mode, so the adjustment may also increase your mpg.

Remote start nets 0 mpg as already mentioned, and always triggers the gas engine to run in cold temperatures. (Gas engine powers the heating; electric engine powers the A/C.)
Hello and thank you for welcoming me! 12mi trip were 80% highway at 60mph. Thanks for the interesting links! Will definitely test tire pressure and try without remote start/ Eco mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You guys are so nice and responsive I feel like asking other questions haha. If you don't mind!

1) What do you guys think about the first 7,500 mi maintenance? How much was it? Can I just do an oil change at Valvoline and call it a day?
2) What if I want to do a very short trip (1mi) on EV mode only. How can I start the car making sure the ICE doesn't kick in when I press the start button?
3) Speaking of, I just tried to do a short trip and I could only do something like 0.3mi before ICE started. I had turned the heater off and the battery was about half. That seems short, is this normal?
4) Last question, is there a difference between AUTO climate control and manual in terms of how often ICE is used? I'm wondering about the heating case: Imagine I set it to 70°F (with AC off) AUTO versus manual with the fan speed turned at the lowest setting.

:)
 

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You guys are so nice and responsive I feel like asking other questions haha. If you don't mind!

1) What do you guys think about the first 7,500 mi maintenance? How much was it? Can I just do an oil change at Valvoline and call it a day?
2) What if I want to do a very short trip (1mi) on EV mode only. How can I start the car making sure the ICE doesn't kick in when I press the start button?
3) Speaking of, I just tried to do a short trip and I could only do something like 0.3mi before ICE started. I had turned the heater off and the battery was about half. That seems short, is this normal?
4) Last question, is there a difference between AUTO climate control and manual in terms of how often ICE is used? I'm wondering about the heating case: Imagine I set it to 70°F (with AC off) AUTO versus manual with the fan speed turned at the lowest setting.

:)
1. First maintenance will be due around 10K miles. It's only an oil change, so, yes.
2. You can't unless it's warm out, you have good SOC and you barely press the throttle. Otherwise, the engine will kick in and will run until it gets to operating temperature.
3. Yes. Normal. See aforementioned answer (#2).
4. No difference. A/C has no direct effect, but the heater is directly related. ICE will run while cabin is being heated regardless of auto/manual. The only exception to this is to use passive heating, but you've got to be constantly moving for it to work effectively.
 

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You guys are so nice and responsive I feel like asking other questions haha. If you don't mind!

1) What do you guys think about the first 7,500 mi maintenance? How much was it? Can I just do an oil change at Valvoline and call it a day?
2) What if I want to do a very short trip (1mi) on EV mode only. How can I start the car making sure the ICE doesn't kick in when I press the start button?
3) Speaking of, I just tried to do a short trip and I could only do something like 0.3mi before ICE started. I had turned the heater off and the battery was about half. That seems short, is this normal?
4) Last question, is there a difference between AUTO climate control and manual in terms of how often ICE is used? I'm wondering about the heating case: Imagine I set it to 70°F (with AC off) AUTO versus manual with the fan speed turned at the lowest setting.
1. First maintenance will be due around 10K miles. It's only an oil change, so, yes.
2. You can't unless it's warm out, you have good SOC and you barely press the throttle. Otherwise, the engine will kick in and will run until it gets to operating temperature.
3. Yes. Normal. See aforementioned answer (#2).
4. No difference. A/C has no direct effect, but the heater is directly related. ICE will run while cabin is being heated regardless of auto/manual. The only exception to this is to use passive heating, but you've got to be constantly moving for it to work effectively.
A few thoughts (and thread references :) ) to build on comments above:

1 - The maintenance minder will let you know when/what action is needed. Oil change is the first maintenance that should come up, and will appear at 15% oil life remaining. The oil life calculation is an indirect/inferred measure, and seems to be based on time (~1 year) for lower mileage (<10k mi/yr) drivers, and distance based (~10k miles) for higher mileage drivers.

2 - In cooler temps, it takes a bit of stars/moon aligning to start and run in EV only. Some things that can help maximize chances for this:
- starting from a warm car (e.g. garaged or warmer outside temps)
- starting with climate control off (i.e. remember to turn off climate control before shutting car down and parking)
- starting with high/full HV battery level (i.e. high battery charge before parking/shut down)
- minimizing and/or easing into throttle use (i.e. baby the accelerator, stay in the lower half of the 'blue' range, etc)
- trying to engage EV mode immediately (i.e. press EV button at start; not always the right temperature/battery conditions to engage)​
The basic gist is to minimize/prevent factors that would otherwise cause the gas engine (ICE) to kick in, because there's a minimum run time for it (and fuel efficiency hit) once it first engages from cold start. There are lots of good mpg/EV related threads throughout the forum, but here are a few to get you started:

3 - On cold start (and in cold weather), once the ICE starts, there is a minimum run time for it. I don't know the algorithm or specifics controlling the duration, but it's noticeably longer than other times the ICE runs. If climate control was on and it was cold out, the ICE likely started and continued to run (consuming gas) for its minimum duration. Another possibility is that the throttle was engaged aggressively, which in turn engaged the ICE which then ran for its minimum duration. Eco mode dampens throttle movement, which is part of what helps with fuel efficiency.

4 - One difference is that depending on temperature difference, "AUTO" could override your fan setting and consume a little more battery energy (and require ICE sooner?) to get to the temperature set point target. Some thoughts and options for temperature/ICE management are in the following threads:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A few thoughts (and thread references :) ) to build on comments above:

1 - The maintenance minder will let you know when/what action is needed. Oil change is the first maintenance that should come up, and will appear at 15% oil life remaining. The oil life calculation is an indirect/inferred measure, and seems to be based on time (~1 year) for lower mileage (<10k mi/yr) drivers, and distance based (~10k miles) for higher mileage drivers.

2 - In cooler temps, it takes a bit of stars/moon aligning to start and run in EV only. Some things that can help maximize chances for this:
- starting from a warm car (e.g. garaged or warmer outside temps)
- starting with climate control off (i.e. remember to turn off climate control before shutting car down and parking)
- starting with high/full HV battery level (i.e. high battery charge before parking/shut down)
- minimizing and/or easing into throttle use (i.e. baby the accelerator, stay in the lower half of the 'blue' range, etc)
- trying to engage EV mode immediately (i.e. press EV button at start; not always the right temperature/battery conditions to engage)​
The basic gist is to minimize/prevent factors that would otherwise cause the gas engine (ICE) to kick in, because there's a minimum run time for it (and fuel efficiency hit) once it first engages from cold start. There are lots of good mpg/EV related threads throughout the forum, but here are a few to get you started:

3 - On cold start (and in cold weather), once the ICE starts, there is a minimum run time for it. I don't know the algorithm or specifics controlling the duration, but it's noticeably longer than other times the ICE runs. If climate control was on and it was cold out, the ICE likely started and continued to run (consuming gas) for its minimum duration. Another possibility is that the throttle was engaged aggressively, which in turn engaged the ICE which then ran for its minimum duration. Eco mode dampens throttle movement, which is part of what helps with fuel efficiency.

4 - One difference is that depending on temperature difference, "AUTO" could override your fan setting and consume a little more battery energy (and require ICE sooner?) to get to the temperature set point target. Some thoughts and options for temperature/ICE management are in the following threads:
Very interesting. Will try the passive heating tomorrow, should be around 35F.

Last question for the day... it's about ACC with low-speed follow. In the owner's guide, it says it can "decelerate and stop your vehicle" (p89). But then page 91 it says "ACC has limited braking capability. When your vehicle speed drops below 22mph, ACC will automatically cancel and no longer will apply your vehicle's brakes". That seems conflicting. Does it brake to a complete stop or not? :surprise:

Again, thank you guys for your replies it has been very helpful.
 

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Last question for the day... it's about ACC with low-speed follow. In the owner's guide, it says it can "decelerate and stop your vehicle" (p89). But then page 91 it says "ACC has limited braking capability. When your vehicle speed drops below 22mph, ACC will automatically cancel and no longer will apply your vehicle's brakes". That seems conflicting. Does it brake to a complete stop or not? :surprise:
The answer is... it depends. See these threads for discussion. :)
 

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You guys are so nice and responsive I feel like asking other questions haha. If you don't mind!

1) What do you guys think about the first 7,500 mi maintenance? How much was it? Can I just do an oil change at Valvoline and call it a day?
2) What if I want to do a very short trip (1mi) on EV mode only. How can I start the car making sure the ICE doesn't kick in when I press the start button?
3) Speaking of, I just tried to do a short trip and I could only do something like 0.3mi before ICE started. I had turned the heater off and the battery was about half. That seems short, is this normal?
4) Last question, is there a difference between AUTO climate control and manual in terms of how often ICE is used? I'm wondering about the heating case: Imagine I set it to 70°F (with AC off) AUTO versus manual with the fan speed turned at the lowest setting.

:)
Welcome to our Insight community and congrats on your new car! Feel free to ask as many questions as you want.

  1. I prefer having the Honda dealership do my oil changes but that's just my personal preference. Dealership oil changes are around $40-$60 in my area. It could be lower or higher where you're located. Go in when the maintenance minder alerts you at 15%. Check the dipstick from time to time to monitor oil level and quality. https://crrs.secure.force.com/hondaknowledge/articles/Public_Knowledge/What-are-the-number-of-miles-or-a-range-for-oil-change-intervals/?q=oil&l=en_US&c=Division_Subdivision:Honda&fs=Search&pn=1
  2. I can start up my car in EV mode as long as my previous trip didn't end with a low battery and I don't have the heater on.
  3. You won't be able to drive far in EV only mode during the winter from a cold start. This has to do with protecting battery health.
  4. I think auto is more aggressive at maintaining the temp you set since it can adjust the fan speed by itself.
Don't get discouraged by your fuel economy numbers during the winter. You will make up for it during the Spring and Summer. :wink: Last winter my average was 40-42mpg and during the spring/summer it was 52-59mpg.
 

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Welcome to our Insight community and congrats on your new car! Feel free to ask as many questions as you want.

  1. I prefer having the Honda dealership do my oil changes but that's just my personal preference. Dealership oil changes are around $40-$60 in my area. It could be lower or higher where you're located. Go in when the maintenance minder alerts you at 15%. Check the dipstick from time to time to monitor oil level and quality. https://crrs.secure.force.com/hondaknowledge/articles/Public_Knowledge/What-are-the-number-of-miles-or-a-range-for-oil-change-intervals/?q=oil&l=en_US&c=Division_Subdivision:Honda&fs=Search&pn=1
  2. I can start up my car in EV mode as long as my previous trip didn't end with a low battery and I don't have the heater on.
  3. You won't be able to drive far in EV only mode during the winter from a cold start. This has to do with protecting battery health.
  4. I think auto is more aggressive at maintaining the temp you set since it can adjust the fan speed by itself.
Don't get discouraged by your fuel economy numbers during the winter. You will make up for it during the Spring and Summer. :wink: Last winter my average was 40-42mpg and during the spring/summer it was 52-59mpg.

Thanks! So imagine it's 30°F outside and I set the heater to HI with AUTO OFF. Does that mean the ICE will never shut off? Basically I find the AUTO mode to be way to loud if I set it at 70°, so I'd rather set it high and put the fan speed at the lowest. But I'm afraid it's not good for mpg.

About your winter mpg: what's your usage like? do you use the heater? the remote starter? what's the average outside temp? how aggressively do you drive?
 

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Thanks! So imagine it's 30°F outside and I set the heater to HI with AUTO OFF. Does that mean the ICE will never shut off? Basically I find the AUTO mode to be way to loud if I set it at 70°, so I'd rather set it high and put the fan speed at the lowest. But I'm afraid it's not good for mpg.

About your winter mpg: what's your usage like? do you use the heater? the remote starter? what's the average outside temp? how aggressively do you drive?
  • I manually set my heater to the lowest temp(currently 65F) I'm comfortable with at medium fan speed (2-3 bars).
  • I usually do the above after I've been driving 5-10 minutes so the engine is semi-warm.
  • Sometimes I will use the heater only intermittently instead of having it on for the whole trip.
  • The goal is to make sure the engine stays warm as long as possible instead of drawing too much heat into the cabin.
  • I will use the remote start feature if I'm in a hurry to go somewhere needing to defrost, shovel out my car, or when it's just too cold for me. I've used the remote start less than 10 times in the past 11 months.
  • -10F to 40F is usually what I get here in the winter before factoring in wind chill.
  • I don't drive aggressively and usually stay within the blue segment on the power meter.
  • My trips are usually around 10 miles or less. I'm going to try to minimize those short trips or combine them into longer ones this winter. Short trips in the winter really kills your fuel economy numbers.
 

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Thanks! So imagine it's 30°F outside and I set the heater to HI with AUTO OFF. Does that mean the ICE will never shut off? Basically I find the AUTO mode to be way to loud if I set it at 70°, so I'd rather set it high and put the fan speed at the lowest. But I'm afraid it's not good for mpg.

About your winter mpg: what's your usage like? do you use the heater? the remote starter? what's the average outside temp? how aggressively do you drive?
If you have the fan on (via auto or not), you're running the heat no matter. In that case you are subject the the car's need to run the ICE to generate heat until the cabin temp is reached. In this case, it's outlay vs. reward. For a longer drive, the cabin will get heated, as will the Lithium-ion battery which will result in more efficient EV driving when it kicks in. For a shorter drive, heating the cabin and battery takes time and you may reap the reward of running the heat if the drive is short.

I almost never use remote start as not moving = 0mpg. I do not drive aggressively. I'm in ECO 100% of the time. Winter temps average between 10-40 degrees depending on time of day.

Time and car familiarity teaches better driving habits. I expect this winter to be better than last winter.
 

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Welcome to the Illuminati of the insight owners. We touring people are just plain better. 😜

As for acc. As long as you have a radar fix on a car ahead of you the car will complete stop. The moment you lose radar the car will return to normal cruise and start driving and looking out for other cars with the radar. Be VERY cautious on city streets! If you're driving along with no radar contact and you come across a car ahead of you stopped still, there is probably less than a 50/50 chance it will see that car and brake. I recommend going into your settings and set the car to beep when radar contact is made that way you'll always be fully aware when radar contact is made. I have driven this car nearly exclusively on radar acc since day one and have a lot of experience with this issue. Just pay attention and you'll be fine.

Signed: verdier dead horse beater 400.

🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪
 

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You can't really say you're getting a certain MPG by going on two 12 mile trips. Calculate your MPG at each "Fill Up" by dividing the Miles Driven by the Gallons used to fill the tank. You can set the Odometer to reset back to 0 miles at each Fill Up.
 

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You can't really say you're getting a certain MPG by going on two 12 mile trips. Calculate your MPG at each "Fill Up" by dividing the Miles Driven by the Gallons used to fill the tank. You can set the Odometer to reset back to 0 miles at each Fill Up.
Fuelly. Use Fuelly.com to track your mileage. Also, have one of your trip meters AUTOMATICALLY reset at fuel-up. That way, you won't forget to do it yourself. Do not take any one trip as the answer to how efficient a car is. Start by using each tank and track a lifetime mileage. It only takes a few seconds to input data for each tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
  • I manually set my heater to the lowest temp(currently 65F) I'm comfortable with at medium fan speed (2-3 bars).
  • I usually do the above after I've been driving 5-10 minutes so the engine is semi-warm.
  • Sometimes I will use the heater only intermittently instead of having it on for the whole trip.
  • The goal is to make sure the engine stays warm as long as possible instead of drawing too much heat into the cabin.
  • I will use the remote start feature if I'm in a hurry to go somewhere needing to defrost, shovel out my car, or when it's just too cold for me. I've used the remote start less than 10 times in the past 11 months.
  • -10F to 40F is usually what I get here in the winter before factoring in wind chill.
  • I don't drive aggressively and usually stay within the blue segment on the power meter.
  • My trips are usually around 10 miles or less. I'm going to try to minimize those short trips or combine them into longer ones this winter. Short trips in the winter really kills your fuel economy numbers.
Thanks! Last question about climate control. Is it useful to turn OFF the AC when it's cold out? Or does it not come on? I guess it's just on if you put the defroster is that correct?
 
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