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Passive heat worked well for me as well with the added bonus of not having a fogging issue. This time. 馃槈 I did not see any help with mpg, but I will continue to try it and see if it changes with repeated tries.
 

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Passive heat worked well for me as well with the added bonus of not having a fogging issue. This time. 馃槈 I did not see any help with mpg, but I will continue to try it and see if it changes with repeated tries.
Do you garage Ruby? I find starting temps to be a big influencer. Also, have you had the opportunity to use the new horn in the real world? I'm tempted, but want to keep the amps down to avoid the need for a relay.
 

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Passive heat worked well for me as well with the added bonus of not having a fogging issue. This time. 馃槈 I did not see any help with mpg, but I will continue to try it and see if it changes with repeated tries.
Do you garage Ruby? I find starting temps to be a big influencer. Also, have you had the opportunity to use the new horn in the real world? I'm tempted, but want to keep the amps down to avoid the need for a relay.
Yeah she's in a garage although it's not heated and gets very cold in there too. I'm keeping an eye on this passive heat thing and watching to see if I get any mileage boosts. I plan to put up a video about this technique.

Since I work at a mall, yes I've had to use the horn . When we installed the horn we held it for a minute without any heating on the wire or any fuse problem. I can't remember but I think we may have upped the fuse to 20 from 10. I don't foresee any problems with the horn.
 

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You can always kick on the rear defogger for a minute or two. At least that won't trip the ICE like cabin heat does.
I find the rear-defogger to be so slow, but that's just me. Granted for the 2+ years prior I was driving a truck that never seemed to have any rear window fog. Anyone else think that it's slow (as in 10+minutes before you get cleared lines through the fog?)
Since both the A/C and rear window defroster are electrically powered, any thoughts on which might be more effective for humidity and/or minimal energy use?

A/C cooling would offset some of the warmth from passive cabin heating, but would it be faster (<10 min mentioned above) and lower energy load to use A/C to occasionally clear rear window condensation?
 

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Since both the A/C and rear window defroster are electrically powered, any thoughts on which might be more effective for humidity and/or minimal energy use?

A/C cooling would offset some of the warmth from passive cabin heating, but would it be faster (<10 min mentioned above) and lower energy load to use A/C to occasionally clear rear window condensation?
I'm curious to hear if other people find it to work faster, we have crazy temperature swings here, so morning fog is quite dense. Even the front defrost takes a few minutes this time of year, but what do you expect when it's relatively humid and temperatures drop 30+ degrees every night.
 

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I'm curious to hear if other people find it to work faster, we have crazy temperature swings here, so morning fog is quite dense. Even the front defrost takes a few minutes this time of year, but what do you expect when it's relatively humid and temperatures drop 30+ degrees every night.
The rear defrost appears slower than my previous cars but the front defrost works quickly for me. I clean the interior glass at least once a month.
 

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Passive heating works great! It actually got too warm in the car the other day. Easy to use.

1. Turn on heat and set to "HI."
2. Turn heat off.
3. Use selector button to direct heat to where you want it to go (dash/floor/defrost using airflow flow directional button). This is the only light that will be on on the HVAC screen.

Technically, the heat will be off, and, as long as the engine is at operating temperature, you'll get EV mode as you would expect. They key is that you must be moving for the passive heat to work. So far, I've had no issues with windows fogging using this method.
 

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Passive heating works great! It actually got too warm in the car the other day. Easy to use.

1. Turn on heat and set to "HI."
2. Turn heat off.
3. Use selector button to direct heat to where you want it to go (dash/floor/defrost using airflow flow directional button). This is the only light that will be on on the HVAC screen.

Technically, the heat will be off, and, as long as the engine is at operating temperature, you'll get EV mode as you would expect. They key is that you must be moving for the passive heat to work. So far, I've had no issues with windows fogging using this method.
Very true, passive heat has worked great for me. Unfortunately due to no garage at work or home, I start both commutes with a generous window fog situation. Sometimes I'm lucky and it's only on the outside and the wipers take care of it. Soon fall will be over and when the temperatures get cold enough, fog won't be my main concern anymore.
 

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Passive heating works great! It actually got too warm in the car the other day. Easy to use.

1. Turn on heat and set to "HI."
2. Turn heat off.
3. Use selector button to direct heat to where you want it to go (dash/floor/defrost using airflow flow directional button). This is the only light that will be on on the HVAC screen.

Technically, the heat will be off, and, as long as the engine is at operating temperature, you'll get EV mode as you would expect. They key is that you must be moving for the passive heat to work. So far, I've had no issues with windows fogging using this method.
Does the 'selector button' still work once the fan is turned off? I've been adjusting the setting/position before turning off the fan.
 

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Does the 'selector button' still work once the fan is turned off? I've been adjusting the setting/position before turning off the fan.
Yes! You can change the vent selection after the heat is turned off. I switch between floor/defrost with passive heat as needed on the fly.
 

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Yes! You can change the vent selection after the heat is turned off. I switch between floor/defrost with passive heat as needed on the fly.
Good to know; I'll try this on next drive. Will save me from the freakishly fast button push and knob twirl I do to keep the cabin heat from running between adjustments, LOL.
 

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Yes! You can change the vent selection after the heat is turned off. I switch between floor/defrost with passive heat as needed on the fly.
Nice, didn't know the vent selection works when the HVAC system is off.
 

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Nice, didn't know the vent selection works when the HVAC system is off.
Once switched off, pressing the vent selector will cause it to light up, but the HVAC will still be off. An ear to the dash will result in hearing the gates open/shut between modes. I start with with the windshield/floor setting when I set up to reduce initial window fogging. After about a half hour, my face gets too warm, and I switch to floor-only.

I'm hoping to reduce my mitten-wearing time this winter. If I can keep my MPGs in the mid-60s, I'll be happy. So far, so good since the switch to winter fuel two tanks ago (65+ MPG).
 

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It was interesting to hear in the original article that mileage was degraded as he traveled to 6k feet. I live near Denver and altitude hasn't affected my mileage at all. The cooling temps out here
certainly have done that though.
 

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I guessing this works because the wind is blowing the engine heat into the cabin as I'm driving instead of needing the fan to be on?
It seems that when I do the auto on and set it to , say 70 degrees, the engine comes on as I back out of my carport. Usually, the engine doesn't come on in such a case, but this triggers it. This is what I want to avoid as I want the battery to move the car at first as much as possible. Generally, the battery moves me for the first 1/2 mile or more sometimes, but with this Auto on passive heating, the engine kicks in right away almost always.

I don't really understand how this works.
 

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It seems that when I do the auto on and set it to , say 70 degrees, the engine comes on as I back out of my carport. Usually, the engine doesn't come on in such a case, but this triggers it. This is what I want to avoid as I want the battery to move the car at first as much as possible. Generally, the battery moves me for the first 1/2 mile or more sometimes, but with this Auto on passive heating, the engine kicks in right away almost always.

I don't really understand how this works.
The trick here is to start with the climate control off, when the engine naturally comes on, turn on the climate control system if you need to make adjustments. For most of us, unless we need to change something, the climate control system isn't touched once during a drive. Whatever vents are open will naturally push through warmer air than the cabin, once the engine is warm.

If you have to turn on the climate control to adjust the temperature, it will almost always trigger an ICE start. You want the Climate control off, (nothing lit up, no temp displayed etc...)
 
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You want the Climate control off, (nothing lit up, no temp displayed etc...)
You can fiddle with the vent positioning button all you want after turning off the system. Altering which vents you use will not kick on the engine.
 

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It seems that when I do the auto on and set it to , say 70 degrees, the engine comes on as I back out of my carport. Usually, the engine doesn't come on in such a case, but this triggers it. This is what I want to avoid as I want the battery to move the car at first as much as possible. Generally, the battery moves me for the first 1/2 mile or more sometimes, but with this Auto on passive heating, the engine kicks in right away almost always.

I don't really understand how this works.
Hopefully this helps clarify, but since you have the climate control system 'on'/auto, you're not in passive mode. For passive heating mode, try these steps in sequence:
1 - Set target temperature to desired level (e.g. HI)
2 - Turn off fan (e.g. press fan ON/OFF button)
3 - Adjust vent position/mode if desired (e.g. floor & defroster vents)

If passive heating doesn't provide enough warmth for you, you can return to 'active' heating by turning the fan back on (press fan ON/OFF button again) and resuming use of temperature controls. However, this active (non-passive) mode you've been running is what triggers the gas engine to run (reducing fuel efficiency) and maintain the cabin temperature you select.
 

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When it's cold out (below 39 F), as a normal human we turn-on the heater. Our insight Touring-trim drastically is reduced in mpg. (77mph gives me 32mpg) 馃槥 yikes. You have to drive 65mph & below to get that 52mpg.
 

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I鈥檓 not religiously tracking my mpg yet but to do so scientifically I think I鈥檇 have to nail down my actual mph, consider wind speed and direction (somehow), etc. I鈥檓 still in that honeymoon phase with this car and I鈥檓 really happy just getting to the next fill up and seeing anything over 40 mpg, a real improvement over my Tucson鈥檚 mpg of ~25.
Assuming the same/consistent route (same terrain), ambient temperature is another factor to track to be 'scientific', as typical summer-to-winter mpg loss can be 25+% alone.
 
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