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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all.

On my previous accord I went pretty all out with sound deadening material and I plan to do the same with my new insight. Looking to see if anyone else is considering doing the same? My plan is to start in the trunk and move to the doors, I haven't checked out how difficult it is to get down to the floors but I might end up doing those as well. I do notice there is a decent amount of road noise on the vehicle. My dream is to deaden all of this.

Stay tuned for more updates. I'm just getting over being out of work for an entire week with the FLU. Almost hospitalized but now on the mend and excited to get back in the car!
 

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Hey all.

On my previous accord I went pretty all out with sound deadening material and I plan to do the same with my new insight. Looking to see if anyone else is considering doing the same? My plan is to start in the trunk and move to the doors, I haven't checked out how difficult it is to get down to the floors but I might end up doing those as well. I do notice there is a decent amount of road noise on the vehicle. My dream is to deaden all of this.

Stay tuned for more updates. I'm just getting over being out of work for an entire week with the FLU. Almost hospitalized but now on the mend and excited to get back in the car!
I did some sound deadening in the car with some ballistics matting. Didn't pull the floor so the car still is a bit loud on the road. No worries since the stereo is more than loud enough to drown it out. Took some video of it on my YouTube channel under the stereo Chronicles folder. Channel name is verdier400.
 

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On my previous accord I went pretty all out with sound deadening material and I plan to do the same with my new insight. Looking to see if anyone else is considering doing the same? My plan is to start in the trunk and move to the doors, I haven't checked out how difficult it is to get down to the floors but I might end up doing those as well. I do notice there is a decent amount of road noise on the vehicle. My dream is to deaden all of this.
Here are some existing threads you can add to on the topic of dampening projects:
- SoundSkins Pro installation - https://www.gen3insight.com/forum/321-interior/2000-soundskins-pro-interior-dampening-project.html
- Door Rattles & Dynamat - https://www.gen3insight.com/forum/321-interior/2160-rattles-doors-dealer-wont-fix.html
- Rear Deck Rattling - https://www.gen3insight.com/forum/290-2019-honda-insight-user-interface/3002-audio-bass-rear-deck-rattling.html

I honestly find my EX to be the quietest car I've ever owned, so I don't have any plans for sound dampening.
 

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Hey all.

On my previous accord I went pretty all out with sound deadening material and I plan to do the same with my new insight. Looking to see if anyone else is considering doing the same? My plan is to start in the trunk and move to the doors, I haven't checked out how difficult it is to get down to the floors but I might end up doing those as well. I do notice there is a decent amount of road noise on the vehicle. My dream is to deaden all of this.

Stay tuned for more updates. I'm just getting over being out of work for an entire week with the FLU. Almost hospitalized but now on the mend and excited to get back in the car!
What are your goals for sound deadening? Starting in the trunk won't affect road noise as much as starting with the floor, it just happens to be a super easy area to do.

Doors, definitely a huge improvement. Do you just use butyl sheets, or are you interested in more than one type of sound deadening?

In the past I've done two full projects, Dynamat the first time, with expandable foam, and foam tape.
The second car, I used SecondSkin, I love that they are cheaper, and offer a much wider range of products. (I also always bought the "B" bulk boxes. Cosmetic defects don't matter when you don't see it, and it was even cheaper.)

Also before you start, I would suggest looking into the advantages of strips and partial coverage, over single full coverage. Often times you can use way less material and get similar results. (allowing you to do more areas with the same amount of material purchase.)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just started a little work this past weekend. I was able to get a few strips down in the trunk. The trunk is mostly bare metal in there so once you peel back the carpeting and knock on the bare metal it just resonates so bad... There's only carpet insulation over the rear wheel wells on the interior so I'm going to concentrate on putting multiple layers of deadening in those areas.

I tried to quickly peel back the carpet on the passenger side with no luck. Honda definitely upped pinning down the carpet for the interior. I'm hoping to get the floorboards and heat shield dampened also.

The doors will come this spring once temperatures warm up. Home depot is out of stock of the deadener so I'll have to wait for that. I've used half the roll of deadener that I have for like 1/4 the trunk. Each roll is 12sqft.

I also noticed at the hardware store that there's something called rope caulk. It's basically butyl cord that's extremely tacky and dense. It even says on the box it can be used for sound deadening. So I picked up some since it was only $5 and I'm still deciding where I might want to add it. I don't have alot. It only weighs 1.4lbs.
 

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The doors will come this spring once temperatures warm up. Home depot is out of stock of the deadener so I'll have to wait for that. I've used half the roll of deadener that I have for like 1/4 the trunk. Each roll is 12sqft.

I also noticed at the hardware store that there's something called rope caulk. It's basically butyl cord that's extremely tacky and dense. It even says on the box it can be used for sound deadening. So I picked up some since it was only $5 and I'm still deciding where I might want to add it. I don't have alot. It only weighs 1.4lbs.
What brands/materials did you opt for? Would you mind sharing links?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The doors will come this spring once temperatures warm up. Home depot is out of stock of the deadener so I'll have to wait for that. I've used half the roll of deadener that I have for like 1/4 the trunk. Each roll is 12sqft.

I also noticed at the hardware store that there's something called rope caulk. It's basically butyl cord that's extremely tacky and dense. It even says on the box it can be used for sound deadening. So I picked up some since it was only $5 and I'm still deciding where I might want to add it. I don't have alot. It only weighs 1.4lbs.
What brands/materials did you opt for? Would you mind sharing links?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/USEAL-USA-Band-6-in-Aluminum-Foil-Self-Adhesive-Repair-Tape-8872AF6/202086180

I know what your going to say. I used the same brand in my 2010 accord when I lived in hotlanta with zero issues with the smell. Worked perfectly fine and for the price it beats any alternative brand on amazon. I have a $100 gc from Christmas so I figured I'd splurge with the sound deadening. Each roll is 12.5sqft. I'm thinking I'll need 4-5 rolls. Not going to go too crazy. Just hoping for some moderate reduction in road noise. I'm thinking the doors will have the most impact...and probably front floor boards.
 

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Just a legal disclaimer, asphalt roofing materials have a Class 2A Carcinogen designation (“probably carcinogenic to humans”).

That being said everyone is entitled to doing their project their own way; from an acoustic barrier standpoint a good butyl based mat will have an acoustic loss factor of .2ish, asphalt based is a factor of .03ish. From a value standpoint, you'd need 6-7x the material to have the same dampening ability. That being said, in areas of thin metal, mass is your friend in sound deadening.

I am not judging in anyway, and everyone's goals are different. This post was simply about sharing information, and has no personal opinion throughout.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just a legal disclaimer, asphalt roofing materials have a Class 2A Carcinogen designation (“probably carcinogenic to humans”).

That being said everyone is entitled to doing their project their own way; from an acoustic barrier standpoint a good butyl based mat will have an acoustic loss factor of .2ish, asphalt based is a factor of .03ish. From a value standpoint, you'd need 6-7x the material to have the same dampening ability. That being said, in areas of thin metal, mass is your friend in sound deadening.

I am not judging in anyway, and everyone's goals are different. This post was simply about sharing information, and has no personal opinion throughout.
I should probably test out some of the Amazon stuff...
I know about the carcinogen warning..honestly I used this stuff in my accord for 4 years never smelling it even in 100degrees. So Im guessing if there's no asphalt smell it's not off gassing...?
 

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I should probably test out some of the Amazon stuff...
I know about the carcinogen warning..honestly I used this stuff in my accord for 4 years never smelling it even in 100degrees. So Im guessing if there's no asphalt smell it's not off gassing...?
Without further research, I don't feel comfortable saying that without smell there wasn't off-gassing.

The only reason why I went with SecondSkin for my install in my last car was it was less expensive than Dynamat, thicker and through Moderating another forum, I had seen the number of satisfied customers. There are pros and cons to almost every material, I prefer single layer installation (strip method), and got a great deal on a b-stock bulk box.

Also goals have to be considered, I was competing, it wasn't a cost based decision exclusively. I wasn't trying to remove road noise with that build.
 

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Since I've only used half a roll already and only in the trunk I think I'll just finish up the trunk and try some stuff from Amazon. Looks cheaper than I remember and it's actually cheaper than the HD stuff...thanks for the advice. I'm sure my SO will thank you for no smelly car...
 

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I ended up using ballistic matting and I didn't find that much change in cabin noise when doing the doors. I think the floor is where I need to go. I'll be interested to hear other people's opinions on the difference in overall sound after doing the doors. I wasn't too impressed, but Adam felt the ballistics matting was a little on the thin side in his opinion. Anyone else have any experience with ballistics or an opinion of before and after matting their doors?
 

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I ended up using ballistic matting and I didn't find that much change in cabin noise when doing the doors. I think the floor is where I need to go. I'll be interested to hear other people's opinions on the difference in overall sound after doing the doors. I wasn't too impressed, but Adam felt the ballistics matting was a little on the thin side in his opinion. Anyone else have any experience with ballistics or an opinion of before and after matting their doors?
Have you done the knock test? It's simple. With your hand, knock on a panel, if it's metallic or tinny, deadening will help. (please don't forget to take off any jewelry that could scratch your baby).

Deep, dense thuds are a good sound.

 

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I ended up using ballistic matting and I didn't find that much change in cabin noise when doing the doors. I think the floor is where I need to go. I'll be interested to hear other people's opinions on the difference in overall sound after doing the doors. I wasn't too impressed, but Adam felt the ballistics matting was a little on the thin side in his opinion. Anyone else have any experience with ballistics or an opinion of before and after matting their doors?
Have you done the knock test? It's simple. With your hand, knock on a panel, if it's metallic or tinny, deadening will help. (please don't forget to take off any jewelry that could scratch your baby).

Deep, dense thuds are a good sound.

🤔 Hmmmmm. Ruby don't like being objectified or touched in unseemly ways. I'll try it out and see if we matted enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm going to try the noico stuff on amazon. There's some cheaper stuff from siless but if you look at the product description the weight difference is key. Noico 18sqft is 12.8lbs and the siless which is supposedly the same thickness is 8.55lbs.. The noico is 45% heavier..

I did a quick measure of the outside of my front doors and it would look like each door will need about 4-5sqft of deadener so I'm thinking 5sqft for each front door and probably 4 or 3 sqft for the rear doors. One 18sqft kit should get me through all 4 doors. To add to it. Believe it or not I've researched that moving blankets have one of the highest sound absorbant qualities. I'm planning on doing the outer skin with the deadener, then at least 2 layers of moving blankets on the inner panel just beyond the vapor barrier of the door.

Taking some observations in the car this am on my drive to work. I notice much of the road noise seems to emanate from the B pillar and C pillar areas of the vehicle. Once the doors are done, I'm thinking the trunk, rear deck, and those two pillar areas are the next areas to tackle.

I am curious about sound deadening the firewall inside the engine bay... I haven't taken a peek yet to see if that's even feasible...but that might help with engine vibration and noise..possibly.
 

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Purchased some noico sound deadener this am. One thing I'm really looking forward to is doing the rear deck. Good golley the rear sub on the deck rattles the heck out of it. Can't wait to deaden all the rattles too for the sound system.

Stay tuned for for a picture update. It's pretty chilly here in the Mid-Atlantic so I'll likely have to wait till some warmer weather comes for me to add the deadener...but who knows. Maybe I'll break out the space heater and get it done. I'm headed on a 500mi road trip for presidents day so it'd be great to get the front doors done before then. I might have time this weekend to get a door done so we shall see.
 

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Purchased some noico sound deadener this am. One thing I'm really looking forward to is doing the rear deck. Good golley the rear sub on the deck rattles the heck out of it. Can't wait to deaden all the rattles too for the sound system.

Stay tuned for for a picture update. It's pretty chilly here in the Mid-Atlantic so I'll likely have to wait till some warmer weather comes for me to add the deadener...but who knows. Maybe I'll break out the space heater and get it done. I'm headed on a 500mi road trip for presidents day so it'd be great to get the front doors done before then. I might have time this weekend to get a door done so we shall see.
Fair warning. I found that the sound dampening material on the rear deck did little to nothing to mitigate the rattles. Most of the problem comes from the rear pillars so you'll need to get some foam and put it in various areas and edges of the pillars. Also, if you play high volume, be aware the seat release buttons can vibrate a bit too as well as the seatbelt mechanisms up top. Happy hunting.
 

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Purchased some noico sound deadener this am. One thing I'm really looking forward to is doing the rear deck. Good golley the rear sub on the deck rattles the heck out of it. Can't wait to deaden all the rattles too for the sound system.

Stay tuned for for a picture update. It's pretty chilly here in the Mid-Atlantic so I'll likely have to wait till some warmer weather comes for me to add the deadener...but who knows. Maybe I'll break out the space heater and get it done. I'm headed on a 500mi road trip for presidents day so it'd be great to get the front doors done before then. I might have time this weekend to get a door done so we shall see.
Fair warning. I found that the sound dampening material on the rear deck did little to nothing to mitigate the rattles. Most of the problem comes from the rear pillars so you'll need to get some foam and put it in various areas and edges of the pillars. Also, if you play high volume, be aware the seat release buttons can vibrate a bit too as well as the seatbelt mechanisms up top. Happy hunting.
How difficult is it removing the molding to get to the bare metal on the C pillars? The rear deck looks pretty narly trying to get to the bare metal and speakers so taking apart the entire back of the interior is something I'm trying to avoid if possible. Is it like the A pillar? Just 1 screw and push pins?
 

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I'm trying to remember. If I remember correctly there are 2 10mm bolts down on the bottom holding the pillars followed by 2 more bolts up top holding the back deck. The rest of it is just clips. I have it in my videos. Not too tough to do but definitely some work.
 
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